Do not assume the well is dry. Most interruptions in water service are problems easily solved. Often times, power is supplied to the pressure switch (Line) but the opposing contacts (Load) are not energized. Comparatively speaking, a bad pressure switch is the problem everyone wishes for. Electrical tests allow the water well technician insight to problems deep down the well. Broken wires, within the well casing, will stop the motor from running. The good news, after the proper splice, the pump will continue on. Because of restraints on lead in drinking water, pump manufacturers are employing a plastic retainer and poppet to hold head waters in place. I have found it necessary to up fit new pumps with old school check valves. This practice is a proactive attempt to extend the life of your pump.
- Twin Pipe Jet Pumps, Ejectors and Foot Valves
- Submersible Pumps, Wires and Leaks down well
- Captive Air Tanks, Pressure Switches and Valves
- Chlorinate Wells
- Whole House water filters
Because the pump is above ground, most people believe this type of water system is easier to work on. False. My experience has led me to understand most problems with deep well jet pumps originate down the well. While a submersible pump is self-contained in its ability to work; the pull motion employed by a jet pump relies on parts external of the pump. The pump itself is no more complicated than a fan. Look to the foot valve and jet assembly as probable causes to most problem.
Captive Air Tanks
An operable captive air tank complements a quality pump. Protecting expensive pumps is what tanks do. A quality captive air tanks can easily decrease the number of times any pump cycles. In turn, your pump lasts longer. The most important component within your water system is also one of the easier parts to replace. The pile of tanks pictured here are the fruits of my labors. Sometimes I can save the existing well pump from a premature death. Other times, a bad well tank dooms the pump as well. A double whammy for the pocketbook.